Stewart Island—Rakiura in te reo Māori—is one of New Zealand’s southernmost islands and is often regarded as the nation’s third main island, following the North and South Islands. It’s renowned for its natural beauty, wildlife, and remote charm.
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My friend Colleen and I flew here with Stewart Island Flights, an interestingly bumpy yet scenic way to arrive. The return flight, however, was smoother. We enjoyed both journeys and the unique experience of flying into this remote island.
Stewart Island / Rakiura, has a rich history rooted in Māori heritage, with its name meaning “glowing skies.” Early Māori used it for seasonal food gathering, while European sealers and whalers arrived in the early 1800s. Today, it’s celebrated for its unspoiled wilderness, with over 80% of the island designated a national park, unique wildlife including the highest concentration of Kiwi’s in the wild, and a strong community spirit.
Getting Here
There are two main options for regular tourists to get to Stewart Island / Rakiura:
Stewart Island Flights
From: Invercargill Airport To: Stewart Iland Airstrip
Duration: 20 minutes
Experience: Scenic flight in a small fixed wing aircraft with stunning views over Foveaux Strait.
Note: Limited luggage capacity, so pack light.
Ferry with Stewart Island Experience
From: Bluff (South Island) To: Oban (Stewart Island)
Duration: 1 hour
Experience: Comfortable catamaran ferry crossing; can be rough in windy conditions.
Note: Sea sickness tablets are recommended for sensitive travellers.
We opted to fly due to the ferry often being cancelled in poor weather. The prices are fairly similar, though the experience is quite different, flying offered spectacular views and a quick, smooth journey across the strait.
Staying
We stayed at the South Sea Hotel in Oban which is Stewart Island’s iconic pub with accommodation. Hearty meals, friendly locals, and cosy rooms, it’s the centre of the islands hospitality and, pretty much, the true community hub. We paid around NZ$140 per night each for a single room with shared facilities.
There are other options to stay such at the Bay Motel, Stewart Island Lodge, backpackers, and other AirBnB’s. The recommendation though is to always pre-book, especially in the peak season as there is limited accommodation and many have been turned back to the South Island!
Eating
Food is plentiful and reasonably priced. The first evening we dine in the South Sea Hotels main dining room. I order the rack of venison ribs slathered in smoky BBQ sauce, and wow, it’s massive! Tender, rich, and full of flavour, it’s a hearty dish that definitely delivers on both size and taste. The fries are tasty and the side of coleslaw top off a great dish. Colleen and our new friend Helen whom Colleen chatted with on the flight over, both order the schnitzel parmigiana, which looks even more appealing!
One morning, we head to the Old Butcher Shop Café for breakfast. While Colleen and Helen indulge in waffles topped with fresh fruit, I go for the savoury option, a baked croissant filled with ham and cheese, served with a side of fresh berry compote. It’s a touch sweet and a bit fancy for my usual morning tastes, but a delicious dish all the same. We enjoy our breakfast with freshly squeezed juice for me and coffees for the ladies.
On our second evening we dine in the main bar and I order the marinated mussels. I was expecting something in the shell with a marinara sauce, but these mussels were a delightful surprise. It was Colleen who reminded me that and marinara and marinated are two very different things… Served cold, they were absolutely massive, each one nearly the size of my fist! Tender and full of flavour, they turned out to be one of the most memorable dishes of the trip, despite the unexpected presentation.
Other food and drink options include the local Four Square supermarket, which stocks fresh rolls, sandwiches, rotisserie chickens, drinks, snacks, and a range of groceries for those cooking at home. Prices are surprisingly reasonable, especially given that most goods are flown or shipped in. We’re told the family run store makes a conscious effort to keep prices fair for the local community—something that’s truly appreciated on this remote southern island.
Playing
If you’re visiting on a weekend, don’t miss the quiz night held each Sunday at the South Sea Hotel. The questions are fun, but what truly makes it special are the local larrikins by the bar, full of charm and cheekiness. I think we came 5th or 6th out of around 18 teams, which I thought was pretty impressive for a team of just two! The best part about quiz night is that it’s run by donation, with proceeds each week going to a different local association. A fun night out that supports the community, everybody wins!
Of course, if chess is your thing, you can always enjoy a relaxed game outdoors, it’s a fun and scenic way to pass the time.
Discovering the Best of the Island
Hiking, known as tramping in New Zealand, is one of the most popular activities on Rakiura. Visitors can choose from the three day Rakiura Track, a Great Walk through lush native forest, or the challenging 12 day North West Circuit, with basic huts provided along both routes for overnight accommodation in the wild.
With limited time, we chose to do the Village and Bays Tour and it was an excellent way to see key sights, learn local history, and soak in Stewart Island’s natural beauty.
Half Moon Bay is the main settlement on Stewart Island / Rakiura, home to the town of Oban. It’s a picturesque harbour village surrounded by forested hills and stunning coastal scenery.
We also stop at Observation Rock, offering breathtaking views over Paterson Inlet / Whaka a Te Wera and out toward Ulva Island, an unforgettable sight that leaves everyone on the tour in awe.
Lee Bay is another scenic stop, which also marks the start of the Rakiura Track. With its dramatic coastline, iconic chain sculpture, and sweeping views, it’s a spot that invites exploration and, well, reflection.
After the tour, we spent a good two hours exploring the newly built museum, which beautifully tells the story of the island’s history. From the early Māori inhabitants to the first European settlers, it’s a fascinating story to explore and learn about. Constructed through community fundraising and government support, it’s a fascinating and engaging tribute to Stewart Island’s heritage.
Stewart Island / Rakiura is a place that stays with you long after you’ve left, wild, welcoming, and wonderfully remote. From breathtaking hikes (if you want to do that) and fresh local mussels to friendly locals and unforgettable scenery, it’s the perfect escape for those seeking nature, tranquillity, and authentic Kiwi charm.
New Zealand things to see and do
Stewart Island / Rakiura things to see and do
Matty Somewhere 